an auspicious afternoon

By Bernie Baskin, Jan 5, 2012, View comments

I had a strangely inspiring afternoon yesterday.  After having explored the restaurants, shops, alleys and markets of Singapore’s Little India from early in the morning, the afternoon heat had pretty much wiped me out by 4:30.  And that’s when I saw it.  Towards the outskirts of Little India, on Sarangoon Road, between two fairly nondescript buildings…a small one-way lane with a simple wooden sign bearing three Chinese characters that translate as Dragon Mountain Temple.

I paused on the opposite sidewalk, staring across the heavy traffic, down the alley.  Although I couldn’t really make out anything down the alley, I also couldn’t imagine why anyone would erect such an out of place sign if the alley led to nowhere.  So, wiping the sweat from my brow, I pulled myself up straight and ran across traffic.

At the end of the alley I found three temples, each more grand than the next.  One was unmarked, but the other two were Leong San Temple (which dates to 1913) and Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple (which dates to 1927).  Two giant colorful stone tigers flank the Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple and I was instantly drawn to the spectacular fifteen meter tall seated Buddha at the heart of the temple.  Inside the traditional wooden doorway, the scent of sandalwood joss sticks harmonizes with the soft ringing of bells and the swoof-swoof of a handmade broom across the tiles. 

I stood inside the temple…sweaty, aching, smiling…and found absolute peace in that place.  Behind the statute of Buddha is a narrow corridor that leads to an enclosure underneath the statue where another grand sleeping Buddha lies in wait.  This hidden chamber is still…not in the way a country lake sometimes feels still at dawn, but truly solid, unmoving, breathlessly serene.  Stepping back out into the temple’s breezy heart, I felt content, lighter somehow to have found something truly off the beaten path and so special.

Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple
366 Race Course Road, Singapore 218638